Location: Bureau of Land Management (BLM) free camping near Yuma, Arizona
This was our first trip to Texas and we've really seen a lot of interesting things. The weather could have been warmer and sunnier at times, but other than that we can't complain. Overall we've had a great trip and have at times been pleasantly surprised, too. Here are a few highlights from our last 6 weeks
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| Merpig |
We'll start by picking back up in the Texas Hill Country where we last left off. After our highly enjoyable visits to Gruene Hall, we headed out to the Lyndon B. Johnson State Historic Site in Johnson City, TX. The visitor center had tidbits of information we had never heard anywhere else, including a wonderful short documentary about the Pedernales River (apparently pronounced "perd-n-alice") starring President Lyndon B and First Lady "Lady Bird" Johnson.
There's also a living history area which we loved. It was very hands on. They even had a Sears catalog from the early 1900s which you could flip through – great stuff at incredible prices <g>. The docent was busy making his lunch on the wood stove, and chatted away with us about life back then and how the garden was doing etc. They usually get 4 harvests of vegetables a year due to the mild climate. Not so mild this year, though, as they'd just had a freeze.
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| Mark butting heads with a buffalo |
Driving through the hill country was spectacular. Lots of evidence of the Germans who settled here in the early 20th century, as well as some of our favorite landscapes in Texas.
It was "bird city" at Garner State Park while we were there. We saw bluebirds, chickadees, red bellied woodpeckers, goldfinches, and many others flitting about in the branches of the trees around our campsite. One bluebird in particular kept fighting with itself in the RV side mirrors. He'd perch on top of the mirror, bend down, see his reflection, and start pecking at it. He even carried out the occasional arial attack, too, trying to get a jump on himself. We'd wake up in the morning to this strange clicking tapping noise and say "it's that stupid bluebird, again". We're not sure who eventually won, but there was a bit of bird poo cleanup required by the time he was finished.
Many of the buildings here were built by the Civilian Conservation Corp during in the 1930s. We especially liked the outdoor dance floor completed in 1941. It was built so the CCC guys could invite the townspeople out for regular Saturday night dances (Mark thinks the main reason for this was to get the local girls over to the camp!) At any rate, a dance is still held here every summer night (weather permitting) with music provided either by local bands or the venerable jukebox. What a great tradition!
Our next stop was Seminole Canyon State Park. Visitors are not allowed to go down into the canyon without a guide, so we signed up for a guided tour (along with about 8 other people) scheduled for the following morning. A short hike down into the canyon and along the canyon floor, was followed by a climb up into two different large areas where over many, many years the river had undercut the walls of the canyon. Indigenous people lived in these caves and left behind many beautiful works of art drawn on the walls. Thanks to our two knowledgeable guides, it was a very interesting and informative tour.
As we headed further West, we became more and more aware that this part of the state is VERY remote. Many of the towns are over 50 miles apart (resulting in very limited cell phone service for the most part). We rely pretty heavily on our smartphone to do research about where to go, where to stay, and what things we might want to see along the way. Of course, we also use it to stay in touch with family and friends. At any rate, as we realized that our phone had beome unreliable, we were also mildly surprised to see how much we really missed having all that communication and info at our beck and call. A far cry from being on the boat in the middle of the ocean with only the radio for communication!
We'd been dawdling hoping that the government shut down would end because we really wanted to go to Big Bend National Park. We always like going to national park visitor's centers, watching whatever films they have, and talking to the rangers to learn what not to miss and what their favorite trails are. We finally decided to go anyway and it turned out to be fine. Due to the shutdown, attendance was low (one benefit, anyway) and we really enjoyed the trails and the scenery, just no Visitors Centres were open and no park rangers to talk to, and no cell phone signal. It's right on the Mexican border and one of the most remote national parks we've visited.
At Boquillas Canyon we found Mexican walking sticks, made from sotol cactus stems, beaded trinkets and embroidered items for sale on the honour system. "Put de mony en ken." Julie bought a walking stick – very light and strong.
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| Rio Grande |
Our favourite trail was the Lost Mine trail, a 4.2 mile out-and-back hike. Walking the steady uphill switchback-laden grade all the way to the top (1,099 feet of elevation gain) we were rewarded with stunning panoramic views. We had nice, intermittent shade, cool light breezes, and a clear blue sky – couldn't have asked for better weather or a prettier walk. And, luckily, despite the warning signs, we didn't see any bears or mountain lions.
After we left Big Bend and were near the town of Marfa, Texas, Julie, idly gazing up at the sky as she is wont to do, spotted something white. "It looks like a balloon." As we got 10 miles closer, we thought it might be a hot air balloon. After 10 more miles we could tell that it was actually more of a dirigible – but a strange looking one – all white, no windows, no apparent motors, hmmm.... Then, as we passed under it, we noticed it was connected to the ground and saw a building and sign that said "Tethered Aerostat Radar System". The next time we had a cell signal we learned that these low-level "aerostats" provide radar surveillance for the drug interdiction program along the US / Mexican border. Pretty cool seeing our tax dollars at work. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tethered_Aerostat_Radar_System for more info.
We'd traveled over 2,100 miles in Texas and still had not had any Texas famous BBQ. So when we got to El Paso on the western border we did some research (our cell phone works again – yay!!) and went to a highly reviewed 'genuine' Texas BBQ spot named Desert Oak BBQ. What a treat - it was fantastic! On the one hand, we're sorry we waited so long to try it, but on the other, we're really glad we did, as the Desert Oak's BBQ is absolutely delicious!
We finally made it to Arizona on January 28th and stayed at the Gilbert Ray county campground near Tucson where we were treated to great sunsets and lovely hikes.
At the Sonora Desert Museum, one of the highlights of the Tucson area, we got to see lots of native animals and plants and had lots of great docents to explain and share lots of information.
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| Julie going batty! |
We even got to see a live raptor show featuring about a dozen hawks zooming over our heads and landing and being fed by their handlers. We were pretty tired after spending the whole day at the museum!
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| Not really worth the cost of the sign!! |
Los Aldogones, Mexico, also known as
"Molar City" is an active hub of dental, optical, and
pharmaceutical activity, just south and west of Yuma, Arizona. With
reportedly over 350 dentists, 100 opticians, and loads of pharmacies,
North Americans flock there for inexpensive dental and optical
services. Hundreds walk acrosss the border every day to get these
services at about 1/3 the cost in the US and Canada. Needless to
say, we both got our teeth cleaned and Mark got an eye exam and some
new glasses while amping for free on BLM land about 10 miles from
Algodones.
The best part of Texas and Arizona has
been getting together with old friends. We spent good amounts of
time with five different couples we've met over the years and one old
friend who lives in Tempe, Arizona. It was wonderful renewing these
friendships, catching up with all the news, and just generally
spending quality time with some of our best cruising buddies.
Unfortunately, one side effect of all this socializing is the delayed
completion of this Khronicle! But now that we're back on our own,
here it is, finally, and we're actually getting started on the next
one, too!
What a great life!
